Monday, July 13, 2009

Weekend Travelogue: Coastal Karnataka

Bangalore – (NH4) -Neelamangala – (NH48) – Mangalore – (NH17) – Honnavar – (NH206) - Tumkur – (NH4) - Bangalore (1002 km)


This was a long planned trip as this was the first long weekend after almost three months. It was a dream for me to drive & explore the triangle route from Bangalore, The NH48 to Mangalore, and NH17 to Honnavar along Karnataka coastline and NH206 to Tumkur.

ay 1(12th Aug, 2006): Bangalore – Neelamangala – Hassan – Mani – Mangalore – Udupi – Kundapura – TurtleBayResort (near Maravanthe)
We got up at 3:30AM, packed up the necessary stuffs, had a nice bath & started the journey at 5AM. We reached Yeswanthpur in no time and Neelamangala by dawn. We turned left to NH48 to Mangalore. The early morning drive was as usual great and it reminded me of our bike trip in January. The road was almost deserted and we were relishing the drive, plus the great Jagjit Singh gazals were adding more aura.


We reached Kamat Upachar after Channarayanpatna for breakfast at 8AM. We start from CRpatna at around 8:45AM.

We were driving at speeds 80-90kmph so that we can relish the beautiful sceneries along the road, the small-big mountains, bushes, the trees etc. In no time we were passing Hassan and two 5 speed breakers where I jumped my bike last time. Hassan bypass has got rough a bit and roads were much deteriorated since Jan. The drive till Sakleshpur through the dwindling roads were OK but road was not as smooth. Sakleshpur is famous for the wooden carvings which they sell in throwaway prices in the road side. My wife bought one good piece for the drawing room and dumped it in the indica boot (She dreamt of buying one when we get our car next time during our bike trip).

We reached Sakleshpur by 9:30AM and after that the nightmare begins as the ghat road started. Although I knew the ghat roads were in bad condition but it was indeed beyond recognition. At all the turns the banking is washed away and the angle of banking is increased compared to the design limit. It was very dangerous for heavy vehicles to take those hairpin turns at higher angle of banking. In addition it started to rain very heavily. I was taking the Santro at the corner top of the banking and then rolling it down to the right corner at the end of the turn instead of keeping it throughout left, in some cases it was very risky as the car got tilted dangerous because of improper banking.

We kept crawling in the ghats but adjacent view of the deciduous forest looked awesome especially in the rain and after monsoon. We could see water gushing out from everywhere and also made a couple of good falls too. Even saw some people stopping their cars and started to play in rain and bathe in the falls. Before we realized it was 12PM and Upinagudi was another 40km. Oops we have spent 3 hours juggling in the ghats. The roads improved so that we could atleast drive at 40kmph but the rains didn’t. It was medium to heavy.

After driving another 10km we decided to take a break in the jungle and also we wanted some snack break too. We had cakes, chips and discussed about the ghat drive. I started to wonder is this the same road that I biked in Jan and did Mangalore – Bangalore in 11 hours including all breaks. Now it is taking ages in car. Now I know why people say Karnataka is more corrupt than even Bihar. This is the state of such an important highway which connects the capital to the only port town. I wish the authorities spare a thought to those heavy tanker drivers who had to abide such extremely conditions to transport fuel to the capital. Anyway we were more agony in store. All our plans needed to realign after this sad condition of road. My plan of reaching Kundapur by 4PM is totally off now; my next target was to reach there before dark (by 7PM).


The roads kept on deteriorating after Upinagudi till Mangalore. It was a driving nightmare and we finally reached Mangalore at 2:45PM, parked in Tajmahal hotel for lunch. Food was not good but the sweets were. Also it was raining that time. NH48 meets NH17 at pumpwell circle where left is Kasargod, Kerala and right is Goa, Mumbai route via the coastal Karnataka.

We started at 4PM after lunch. Roads inside Mangalore were good but once we entered NH17 it became pathetic. I cannot explain the state of the roads till Surathkal. It was first gear throughout. It was simply the worst.

Thankfully after all those pathetic moments, the roads improved after Surathkal, it was already past 5PM and my second deadline was also challenged now. In addition there was heavy traffic too. Even Udupi and Kundapur bypass roads were not in good shape otherwise the NH17 was decent and it kept on getting better. We entered Turtle bay resort about 12km from Kundapur, near Maravanthe at around 6:50PM at the stroke of darkness.

Checked into the beautiful resort on the beach, refreshed in the nice sea breeze, had a much needed bath and sat down to discuss the pathetic state of these cities in monsoon. After a nice dinner, we hit the bed by 10PM.

ay 2 (Chilling in sea, no driving at all): We get up at around 6AM. Thankfully it was not raining so went to the beach to enjoy the early morning breeze. One peculiar thing that I noticed there was that it rained any moment. Rain played hike-seek throughout the day. All of us were awake by now and we had a nice breakfast of puri, aloo, omlette, bread and of course the tea and filter coffee.

Now its time for water!! We all entered the sea and played with water. It was risky for swimming as there were rocks here n there and also the tide was on the higher side that day. We spent the next 3 hours in water and returned at around 1PM for lunch.

Some pics


After a brief rest, evening and night was spent in the beach and then we had a nice Chinese dinner before hitting bed. It was fun throughout.

Day 3 (14th Aug, 2006): TurtleBay – Maravanthe – Bhatkal – Murudeshwar – Honnavar – Sagar – Shimoga – Bhadravati – Kadur – Arsikere – Tiptur – Tumkur – Bangalore
Alarm rings at 5AM; we pack our stuffs, take a nice bath and start at dawn. Within a few distance we enter into that zone of NH17 where the Arabian Sea is the left and the river Sowparnika is flowing in the right. That was an awesome site. I have never seen such a beautiful site. We immediately stopped, clicked few photos and spent a nice 15 min there.

Some where after Maravanthe, we did fuelling and headed straight to Murudeshwar. It was really a nice drive. By 8:15AM, we were in front the famous shiva temple in Murudeshwar.

It was an awesome view of sea and the shore from temple. We offered a nice morning puja there. It is believed to exist since the Ramayana time and the story around Ravana’s atmalinga. Gokarna and Murudeshwar were set up much at the same time. Adjacent to the temple was a big status of Lord Shiva, about 50 ft tall.

After the temple visit, we had a nice breakfast with crispy dosas and puris and the naveen beach restaurant which is situated on the sea.

Some pics of Murudeshwar


We start from Murudeshwar at 10AM and headed towards Honnavar. Roads were better. We enter NH206 at Honnavar and soon into the ghats. Awesome view of the ghats and also we could witness awesome small falls across due to the monsoons. But the ghat road of NH206 was really good although narrow compared to Shiradi ghat but at the same time it was deserted as well, so it was pleasure driving all through.


We reached Jog Falls at noon. We spent about 20 min there. Rain and mist was playing hide-seek there. Water was in full flow in jog and also the amount of tourists. It was crowded. But the huge falls looked awesome this time.

We reached Shimoga at 2:15PM, missed the bypass and entered the city. For no reason a cop caught us and told that we have jumped signal, don’t know when. For them, the signal means “hand signal from 5 footer traffic cop on a 80 ft wide busy road”. So we were stranded.No one wants to write the challan, they were throwing the receipt book into each other. Finally one of them cut a challan and handed over to Nikhil. Ideally they should cut two challans (Rs 200) for two cars but they cut only one and gave the receipt for only Rs 100. Nikhil was a bare spectator, never knew whether to laugh or shout. We lost more than an hour in this process and entered a stupid hotel, just had a quick dosa lunch and started from shimoga at 4PM.

The road became very bad after Bhadravati for a few kms and improved a lot after Kadur but we have seen the worst so no problem. After a brief coffee break in Arsikere we headed towards Tumkur.

It was already dark and we reached Tumkur at 9pm. We entered Reliance A1 Plaza for dinner. This was our first visit to A1 plazas and we were damn impressed. Also after a poor lunch we were hungry too. We were served with awesome naan, butter chicken, pepper chicken, paneer-matar, dall fry and we hogged everything. It was damn clean and also very cheap. That was great. I don’t mind going there for a drive and dinner from Bangalore as well.

Actually we purposefully delayed by taking a coffee break in Arsikere as we wanted to avoid an evening entry into Bangalore due to the heavy rush. We started from A1 Plaza at 10PM and zoomed into Bangalore in not time and reached home by 11 PM.

We covered a total distance of about 1003 km in two days with some mind-blowing sceneries and a nice sea beach.

Signing off
Vijay

Friday, February 27, 2009

Bangalore – Ooty – Bangalore

Since New Year 2009, my family just forgotten about those wonderful long drives, weekend trips. With running loans (car and home both) and speculations of salary freeze looming large on us, it was prudent to settle on a cost cutting mode. On a positive note, this experience taught my family some innovative cost cutting measures which otherwise we ignore. I floated the idea of a trip in the month end & it worked.

Day-1 (27th Feb): Bangalore – Ramanagaram – Chennapatna – Maddur – Mandya – Srirangapatnam - Mysore – Nanjangud – Gundlupet – Bandipur – Masinagudi – Ooty


Although both of us get up at 3AM but our plan of starting at 4AM took a hit as I had some official work to be delivered before the month end.Then after a quick shower, wake up the baby, load the stuffs in the car and start by 4:55AM.

Roads were empty in Bangalore at that hour. Within 15min we pass through MG Road, Richmond Road, Corporation Circle and onto Mysore Road flyover. Once we pass NICE road crossing, car started to hit 100+ kmph speeds. I kept the speed in 80-100kmph range in the dark as you never know Mysore road is famous for throwing surprises.

Within no time we pass the Silk City, Ramanagaram and just before we enter Chennapatna the traffic converged into one lane. The other lane was blocked for some road over-bridge construction. I lost some considerable time crossing it as it was lined up with trucks.

Once passed Chennapatna, the drive was smooth and we saw day break out after Maddur. With day light the speed to increase to 120kmph range and hit a top speed of 135kmph; soon we were passing the Sugar city, Mandya. With almost no traffic at that time, we reach Mysore Ring Road signal at 6:55AM (exactly 2 hours from home). Another 15min we cross the city and stop at Kamat Madhuvan at 7:10AM for tea. I covered about 150km from home in 2hr 15min. Had we not got stuck at Chennapatna we could have done this even faster.

After a small break of 15min at Kamat for tea, we start at 7:35AM. The morning drive on NH212 was wonderful. The stretch from Nanjangud to Gundulpet was smooth and fast.

he only bad stretch: At Gundulpet NH212 curves to the right towards Wayanad and I take the straight road to Bandipur. Initial few kms were patched compared to my last drive in Oct07 but after that it is the same old story. All broken tarmac and we were on first and second gears. I preferred to drive on the adjacent untarred road than on the broken tarmac with full of potholes. It took us 20 odd min to cross 10km.

Inside Bandipur Forest
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Road improve after Hangala Village once we enter into Bandipur range. Now we can speed up. Soon we were passing through the Bandipur Wildlife Sanctuary. Jungle was dry and looked like there was some fire as well. We spotted some deers on the way though. We soon pass the KA-TN border and reach Theppakadu at 9:15AM.

Theppakadu to Masinagudi stretch
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I took a left turn onto the small bridge to Masinagudi. Unlike last time, this stretch through the forest till Masinagudi is freshly laid and the drive was smooth. Soon we pass Masinagudi and onto an empty straight stretch. I pushed the pedal and cruising at 80kmph. All of a sudden, a deer came out of no where and jumped a cross the road. Had the deer jumped 10m before, nowhere I could have braked to stop the car and things could have been fatal for both the deer and the car. I realized my mistake and did not cross 60kmph after that till the Foothills of Segur Ghat.

Segur Ghat (36 Hairpin bends): For those who don’t know this is the steepest road in South India. 36Hairpins and about 7-8km you are in Ooty from Nilgiri Foothills. The car started the initial 2 bends with ease in third gear as we had the momentum. We stopped at the 4th hairpin bend (Bison View point) for some water and pics. With lesser load compared to last drive and with better skill I could cover all the bends in second gear except one (where I had to go behind a mini bus in first gear). This road is one way now for outstation vehicles. Hence with lesser vehicles in descent, the climb was comfortable and enjoying.


After crossing Segur ghat, the road meets the Gudalur highway (NH67) to Ooty. The road is re-laid and beautiful to drive (last time it was a nightmare drive of 5km from there to Ooty). We reach Fingerpost at 10:30AM and another diversion to Golf Road for a km to reach the guest house.The GH is a beautiful palatial bungalow built by britishers a century back and we were welcomed by Ratan (the caretaker), his wife and his naughty kid. Ratan is a Nepali and a native of Darjeeling and his wife a Bengali. It was like a home-coming for them as they could speak in Bengali with us.

After refreshing ourselves and decided to watch the T20 match. In between, we had nice homely food at the guest house consisting of roti, rice, dal and chicken curry. I had already planned that I will not go to the crowded ooty lake and Botanical garden which I had already visited in the previous trips.

After an exciting T20 match, we got ready for Dodabetta peak, the highest peak of south india. Dodabetta is the left road at Charring Cross signal, straight one goes to Coonor. The climb from ooty to Dodabetta was awesome and we passed some nice plantations and valleys. This is actually the road to Kotagiri. We need to take a small diversion from this highway into a single lane road to reach Dodabetta peak.

Needless to say, Dodabetta did offer some breathtaking scenaries all around. We clicked some pics there.


Pics at Dodabetta
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We did a small shopping at the government shop and slowly and leisurely descended to ooty by 6PM and drove back to the Guest House. End of a wonderful day. Finally we retired to bed by 10PM.

Day-2 (28th Feb): Ooty internal, Train ride to Coonor

We wake up at 6AM after a good night sleep. Wore the woolens as it was very cold outside and stepped out to have a walk in the garden. We enjoyed the beautiful morning and the view of a small valley seen from the bungalow.

The first thing mentioned in the morning newspaper was that the Coonor -Mettupalyam train is cancelled on Saturday on account of forest fire. As the day was planned for the Ooty - Coonor train ride, I got anxious to know whether Ooty – Coonor is operational or not. Atlast it was cancelled.


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Ooty Lake

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Loco Shed - Coonor
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We drive out of Ooty station towards Wax museum which Ratan was mentioning a day before. It is about a km from Charring Cross signal onto Coonor road. IT was decent self maintained museum consisting of life size wax model of Gandhiji, Abdul Kalam, Shivaji, Tagore etc. We also purchased some designer candles at the retail shop inside the compound.

Being a South Indian Hotel, I had an amazing Paneer butter masala there; I can say some of the Punjabi hotels cannot make such paneer dish. Both the Thali consisted of 7-8Katoris. As I was hungry and the food was delicious, finished off everything at a go.

After the sumptuous lunch we head back to the guest house & slept off for a while.Got up leisurely in the evening and drove to Charring Cross for the regular shopping whenever we are in the hills. We bought some Honey, Cashewnut, spices, Chocolates etc and we roam around there for a while and start back from Charring Cross at 7:30PM.

We had a homely and hot dinner served with roti, rice, sambar, curry, omlettes etc. It was indeed very sumptuous. We again retire to bed by 10PM. The day folded very well.

Day-3 (1st Mar): Ooty – PykaraLake - Gudalur – Madhumalai – Bandipur – Mysore – Bangalore

Alarm rings at 6AM. In another couple of hours we have leave this wonderful place. The trip was pretty good so far and we enjoyed every moment of it.
we were by 8:30AM. We head directly to the dining hall and have nice hot idlies with chutney. loading the car, we finally move out of the bungalow at 9:30AM.

The plan was to cover the various view points along the Gudalur route. I took left turn on Golf Road which meets NH67 at HPF. Golf Road itself was very scenic. Another 7-8km from there we reach pine forest. Park the car there and move down a little bit. We did not go all the way to the lake, spent some nice time there. By now we were convinced that the road via Gudalur was indeed very beautiful. Every turn was scenic. You feel like stopping at every corner and click pics. We again stopped at Kamaraj Sagar Dam for pics. Add to all of this, Gudalur road which was not motorable a year back is an excellent ghat road now. We could cover the distances fast and enjoy the scenic beauty too.

Golf Road
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Our next stop was a hill (I think it is called shooting point). When you climb that hill, you can see a beautiful valley at the other side. Many renowned films were shot there. Another round of pics we move again. The scenic beauty was just getting better.


Pykara Boat Ride: Within no time we were reached Pykara. We took the diversion from the highway to Pykara boat house. On reaching the spot I was amazed such a beautiful and huge lake, infact it is the reservoir of the dam and about 95ft deep and surrounded by all kind of vegetation right from tall trees to bushes. The scenic beauty was breathtaking. We had to take the boat ride now. Luckily we were approached by a 6 member family who booked a 8 seater boat and waiting for 2 more person. We happily joined them as 8-10seater rides were longer and to far off distance. The boat ride was best of the day. It was 11:15AM and very sunny day but the breeze was so chilly that at times we were thinking that we should have got the jackets from the car. It was an amazing experience.

Pykara Dam
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Pykara Lake
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Some pics from Boat @Pykara Lake
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After a wonderful boat ride, we started our return journey from Pykara Boat house at 11:45AM. The road has lots of curves so you cannot do high speeds. I was doing like 5th gear/50kmph. I felt Masinagudi route not only shortest but also fastest as you can reach ooty very fast. But nothing beats the scenic beauty of Gudalur route.

Some pics Gudalur route
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Spotted 3 elephants at Madhumalai Forest
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Within an hour we reach Madhumalai forest range. It was so hot that I had to put AC in full blast inside the forest. We were passing Pugmark Restaurant at Bandipur at 1PM

Road after Gundlupet was empty and I could 100+ speeds and covered the distance faster. Luckily the kid woke up at Nanjangud. By that time I was also hungry now, I finally halted at Kamat Madhuvan for lunch at 2:45PM.

After a leisure lunch and the regular nappy changing session we finally left Kamat at 3:45PM. Crossed through Mysore and onto SH17 in another 15min. We could good speeds except inside the towns till we reach Ramanagaram at 5:30PM. After that it was regular Sunday traffic on Mysore all heading towards Bangalore. Last 50km to home took us almost 1.5 hours and finally reached out apartment at 7PM.

End a wonderful journey to the Nilgiris.

Total distance travelled: 628kms (home to home)

Signing off
Vijay

Monday, January 26, 2009

A Day trip to Himavad Gopalasamy Hills

Friends,
We Visited Himavad Gopalasamy hills yesterday .All the photos I have taken in N70 and hence bear with me on the poor Quality!!. Anyway I am planning to buy a digicam shortly.


Route Taken :-
Mysore - Nanjanagodu -Gundlupeta-Himavad Gopalasamy beta-Bandipur-Gundlupet-Nanjanagodu-Mysore (End-to-End 200 kms)

Mysore @ 7 am Photo:-



We Started around 8 am and drove past Nanjanagodu and stopped for breakfast in "Coffee Stoppe Restaurant" 3 kms before Gundlupet. Had poori and also taken some parottas for Lunch as "To go". Food is ok (Kerala Style subjis)

Restaurant Photo:-





Drove past Gundlupet and the road became poorer and after 10 kms or so , There was a "Karnataka Tourism" Board Himavad Gopalasamy betta ----> 12 kms /
^

Bandipur 10 kms. We took the Right turn and road is good & the view of this road is below:-







and after 6 kms of drive, reached the forest Dept gate.
As this hills is part of Bandipur Tiger Reserve Forest dept comes into play .

Forest Dept Gate :-




Road to the hills is so steep and almost I drove the santro in Second gear and few places even needed first Gear to climb up. It's exactly 6 kms to the top of the hills. We parked our santro there (5 Rs. Parking charge). And more than the temple the surroundings are so scenic .

Temple Photo:-




View from Hill top:-







Trekking path from hill top :-




There are excellent trekking routes around and just we walked 1/2 an km or so (As I Went with my Aged Father /Mother & Wife)and came back to the temple. Had lunch and left the place back to the Gundlupet - Bandipur road .
On the way , we saw a lake and just took a detour and saw several kids enjoying their dives /swim in the lake .

Photo of the lake



Joined back Gundlupet- Bandipur road and drove towards Bandipur Forest office (10 kms).

Road to Bandipur




Bandipur forest office



Just Spent 1/2 an hour there and there are groups of school kids waiting for the safari .. We retuend back to mysore Via the same route.

If any of you planning one you need more info on any of the above, please feel free to post.